Escape to San Miguel de Allende: The Reopened, Safe & Healthy, Heart of Mexico
Finding Culture, Adventure & Romance in a Reopened San Miguel de Allende, the Heart of Mexico, during the Age of Covid.
The beautiful Calle Aldama; perhaps the most photographed street in San Miguel de Allende.
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A Warm Introduction to San Miguel de Allende
Crisp flakes from a warm baguette crumble to the plate below. Soft, buttery mozzarella cheese and a refreshingly sweet tomato melt in my mouth. Satisfying and indulgent, this is my introduction to San Miguel de Allende as Petit Four co-owner Paco Cárdenas welcomes my partner Kevin and I to the city. After a four month closure due to the world’s Covid-19 pandemic, San Miguel de Allende has reopened with the World Travel & Tourism Council’s “Safe Travels” seal of approval recognizing the implementation of global health and hygiene protocols. Tourists are once again invited to explore this unique city steeped history, culture and romance. Kevin and I are here, our first major trip since the pandemic began, to discover San Miguel de Allende, the “Heart of Mexico.”
Sandwiches savored, Paco serves us a decadent desert of three layer, chocolate cake, cherry pie and lattes. Some people you just know you’ll be friends with from the moment you meet. That is Paco and I. As Paco shares his story, his passion radiates; a passion for baking, business and for this city he calls home. Moving to San Miguel from Mexico City in the late ‘90s, he and his cousin Norma Guerrero took a risk on a dream and opened a bakery: Petit Four. Back then this wasn’t exactly the thriving town it is today, but potential loomed. Twenty-two successful years later, Paco and Norma are shutting this location in the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, the downtown district, and moving just a couple blocks away to an upgraded space with a beautiful courtyard and an abundance of charm. You see, while the pandemic continues to cause havoc around the world, this is a story of perseverance, hope and opportunity in an age of health, safety and wellness.
A New Age of Health & Safety
Strolling the cobblestone streets of San Miguel de Allende after lunch just feels good. It’s exciting, eye-opening and wondrous. It’s not hard to imagine the centuries of history. Laying in the state of Guanajuato, the center of Mexico, here a captain of the Spanish Army came to sympathize with the budding Mexican independence movement. The year was 1810. A group of independent-minded men would regularly meet behind these clay walls to discuss ideas, inequalities and change. They would do so under the cover of a literary society. The captain, Ignacio Allende, and the “Father of Mexican Independence,” Father Hidalgo, would go on to lead the rise against the Spanish army. While both men were betrayed, captured and executed in 1811, the spark they ignited spread across Mexico as a series of conflicts lasting until 1821.
Honoring Allende’s legacy the city would adopt his last name in 1826 as it moved into a new chapter of Mexican independence. But the shadows and influence of Spain’s colonial rule live on. Exploring the sixty-four square blocks of San Miguel de Allende’s historic center is a journey through well-preserved Baroque inspired architecture. We find ourselves continually surprised by what lies behind many of the city’s estimated two thousand doors. Restored courtyards housing art galleries, hotels, restaurants, jewelry shops- the ambiance is charming, quaint and romantic. Add bougainvillea vines, handcrafted ironwork windows and a palette of orange, yellow and ochre, San Miguel de Allende is a fairytale city come to life.
The Charm of San Miguel de Allende’s city center.
Using the Past to Create the Present
We arrive back at Casa Hoyos, our hotel for our first couple of nights in San Miguel and one of these restored, colonial buildings. Originally purchased by Julián Hoyos at the beginning of the 20th century and housing the city’s first currency exchange, it would later become a grain and seed store. Recently, under 4th generation family ownership, the building opened as Casa Hoyos, a colorful and modern boutique hotel paying homage to its past. Bold and fun, the hotel celebrates its rich history while forging ahead with a certain youthfulness. The hotel’s main color, harvest yellow, recalls the corn, the grains, once housed here. Archways framing the courtyard bask in black and salmon clay while traditional ochre red tiles complete this mix of old and new in a luxuriously bohemian way. A night of self-care, relaxation and indulgence follows drinks at Bekeb, the must-visit rooftop bar.
San Miguel de Allende is one of those cities known for its rooftop terraces. With moderate temperatures year-round, even in the depths of December, the outdoors can always be enjoyed. Thankfully it’s the end of the summer season and this morning we’re back on Casa Hoyos’ rooftop deep in lotus position with eyes shut, taking in the sounds of the city as it wakes. Birds chirp. A scooter zooms by below. A bicycle’s friendly bell tings. We begin a private, hour long yoga session overlooking the early morning bustle. Midway into our practice a nearby church bell sounds its deep, robust tones. This is one of those moments when I so clearly feel at peace with where I am, physically and in spirit.
Morning yoga on the rooftop of Casa Hoyos, San Miguel de Allende.
Art, Food & Culture: Classic Creativity
After class we thank our instructor Alejandro Trejo, who in addition to playing the harmonium, organizes the annual health & wellness festival and is an incredibly talented painter showcasing local folklore and tradition. We decide to spend the day exploring San Miguel de Allende’s rich blend of history and the arts further. A short walk just out of the downtown district brings us to Fábrica La Aurora. Built in 1902, La Aurora was the main textile factory and biggest employer in the region for decades. Nestled up against the “Las Colonias” Dam, water generated the electricity needed to power the spindles and looms that aided workers in turning bales of raw cotton into threads and clothing. The high-quality, finished products would then get distributed and sold throughout Mexico. That is until 1991 when the factory fell victim of a more globalized industry.
Today Fábrica La Aurora welcomes guests as an arts and design center. Kevin and I scroll the grounds peeking into the various studios of sculptors, painters and interior designers. We sit for a cup of coffee in an outdoor cafe with scents of fresh flowers nearby. La Aurora has beautifully woven its past into the story of San Miguel today- a celebration of creativity.
The grounds at Fábrica La Aurora: Cultural Center of Arts & Design.
We find that creativity on full display as we eat our way through the city. With high-end dining options, mouth-watering street-side tacos and everything in between, San Miguel de Allende has become a foodie’s paradise. Two of our dinners stand out, excelling in character, ambiance and taste of menu. Master chef Donnie Masterton brings his passion and culinary experience running famed kitchens across the United States to San Miguel at The Restaurant. Here he offers diners comfort food with elevated twists that use only the highest quality ingredients, locally grown produce and sustainably sourced meats. We happen to catch The Restaurant on Thursday evenings when in addition to its regular menu, a variety of speciality burgers are served.
Antonia Bistro is perched on the rooftop of our second hotel, El Palomar. Just a couple blocks removed from the center of the city and up a slight hill, it’s the ideal vantage point for a romantic, sunset dinner. We arrive as the early evening sun lingers from across the valley, casting a fiery array of golden yellows, reds and oranges onto San Miguel below. A warm breeze; a playlist of traditional Mexican beats mixed with some Balearic classics; soft, tinkling lights strung above… Are we on one of the great Mediterranean isles? No, this is San Miguel de Allende, a city heavily influenced by so many foreigners over time, yet a place so distinct, so uniquely its own.
Dinner with a view at Antonia Bistro at El Palomar boutique hotel, San Miguel de Allende.
We enjoy a bottle of wine as the sun flashes its last rays of the day before hiding behind the Sierra Central mountains in the distance. Our dinner arrives. I indulge in a homemade fettuccini with oxtail, creamy vegetables and sheep’s cheese. Kevin goes with the jerk chicken, fried rice and chicken juice. A dessert of sweet potato creme brûlée, red berry ice cream and chocolate cake served with yogurt ice cream, mascarpone cheese, almonds and meringue… I’m not sure what, or who, I’m most in love with? San Miguel de Allende glowing in pink and purples post sunset, this food prepared by Chef Alejandro Cuateptozo or my partner sitting across from me clearly enjoying the moment as much as I am.
Thankfully our suite is just one floor down! Beginning to wind down for evening, we sit in our front room looking out in satisfaction. With balcony doors open the illuminated towers of La Parroquia and the dome capping the Church of the Nuns seem just out of reach. El Palomar is classic luxury. It’s regal and charming, incorporating both natural and man-made structures into its design. A rinse in the indoor/outdoor shower before the king-sized bed engulfs us in its fine, linen sheets; this is the perfect end to a day well spent.
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel at night from our suite at El Palomar.
Choosing Adventure
Some days spent on holiday are more laid-back, focused on rejuvenating the body with spa treatments, an afternoon by the pool or a boozy brunch at a cute, sidewalk cafe. And while we could choose to do any of those today, we instead decide to fill the new day with adventure! I savor a cup of coffee while taking in the sun’s first rays hitting town below and then we’re off to explore the San Miguel countryside…on horseback.
Our friends at 3 Señors are the original equestrian tourism company in San Miguel. Open since 1996, they work with all skills, all levels of riders; but seeing as it’s been some time since I’ve ridden and Kevin, well he’s a total rookie, we take a gentle ride, not one from a Spaghetti Western race scene. As we ride on this beautiful, crisp Saturday morning we marvel at traditional, authentic haciendas and architectural remains. Out here, our guide Mauricio explains, lies the original site of San Miguel. This area known as San Miguel Viejo, out a few kilometers from the city feels special. It’s quiet and peaceful. The crinkle of the leaves in the trees rustles as we stop to admire the first church built in the area, standing now as a tiny chapel accessible only via foot or horseback.
The original San Miguel de Allende church, now a chapel in the remote countryside.
If San Miguel de Allende is a celebration of its past in the present, nowhere do we witness this more than while on horseback. Mauricio tells us a bit of his story. Having grown up “just over there” as he points up toward the hills, he’s a local. Enjoying the benefits of life in the valley, he’s worked heavily within the US film industry right along A-list celebrity names as productions have set up shop in the area. This a man who loves where he comes and enjoys sharing it with the world. Suddenly we stop. Up ahead a couple older ladies herd a large group of oxen across the river. I smile, appreciating the simplicity of the moment. What century is this?… Before returning back to the ranch, we cross a newly completed sculpture garden. This is San Miguel de Allende, a mystical blend of old and new.
History on Foot and by Taste
What does everyone do after a morning spent on the trails? Eat, of course! But today, in the spirit of continued adventure, we try something totally new for each of us, a walking and food tour of the city. We meet our guide Victor, himself a chef and San Miguel de Allende expert at the what is now nicknamed the Laundromat, a clay structure remaining from earlier times. Here, the local San Miguel women would stand side by side washing clothes, or sometimes their children, as fresh water flowed from the hill above. Now a park, this is where we start our afternoon exploring the city by foot, and by taste!
Over the course of the next three hours, Victor, from Taste of San Miguel food tours, takes us on a journey through history by way of cuisine. First a traditional favorite, rich tortilla soup from Restaurant El Encanto. Then we move to The Blue Bar inside the Belmond hotel for cuitlacoche tacos paired with a lavender and mint iced tea. What exactly is cuitlacoche? It’s the fungus that grows when moisture gets inside a corn husk and rots. Yes, this is a delicacy, and a fine tasting at that I admit. Heading to La Cocina, Café del Viajero I taste perhaps the best Mole Negro I’ve ever had. The house speciality is spiced and seasoned, prepared for hours before serving. While enjoying my mole I notice the black and white, framed photographs of old San Miguel de Allende… The first image I see, one of the Laundromat in operation. A slight chill passes over my body when I think of the history this town had seen, the transformations it’s gone through; yet here we are, enjoying a decades old mole recipe on these same streets.
While moving through the city, Victor points out interesting landmarks and shares lesser-known stories. We learn of the forty-seven fountains placed throughout San Miguel; some on street corners for the public, others inside the fancy mansions for the elite, society class. He stops us on a corner, asking us to look up at a window while describing the horrific acts that took place behind this building’s walls. The Inquisitor’s House, home of Victorino de las Fuentes, an advisor to the Court of the Inquisition in 1815, is perhaps the best example of the Spanish Barque style architecture the city is known for, and it’s officially the only historic landmark in San Miguel named by the federal Mexican government.
After sampling margaritas and cactus tacos at Don Taco Tequila, a vegan bar and restaurant, we stand with a beautiful view of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. Little did we know the church’s design was based on the Gothic churches being built in Europe at the same time. But Zeferino Gutierrez, a local bricklayer turned architect, had never been to Europe. The local parish commissioning the project gave Gutierrez a postcard and asked him to replicate the church drawn on it. It’s the stories like these we never would have heard if it wasn’t for getting outside our comfort zone and trying something new, that being new food and a new adventure.
But what’s a food tour without dessert? No matter how full I am, there’s always room for ice cream! We head to Helados Las Monjas, a local street vendor serving handmade, Mexican ice cream in a wide variety of creative flavors since 1968. Not all for the children, my rum spiked ice cream hit me har, almost like having a cocktail. Finally we end our parade of decadence at San Augustin for fresh, hot churros made right before or eyes. So incredibly delicious…
Walking the streets of San Miguel de Allende learning history and sampling the best restaurants, a food tour.
Finding The Heart
During the past few months we’ve been confined to our homes, asked to stay within our immediate surroundings except for essential travels and our physical interactions have been limited to those within our inner circles. As difficult as the hardships have been, we’ve also been given the opportunity to look within, to examine and ask ourselves, “What is it that truly matters?" Our passions. Our relationships. Matters of the soul, the beating of our hearts. In so doing we’re finding new ways to move forward with a renewed focus on our hearts, on our souls, on our happiness. This adventure to “The Heart of Mexico,” San Miguel de Allende, allowed my partner and I to rekindle romance, celebrate our passions by seeing so many in San Miguel de Allende authentically live out their own and move into a new world, traveling again with health and safety, following the call of a curiosity that fulfills the heart.
Sunset over San Miguel de Allende. Purchase the print and more on Society6.
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